Day 23 - Monday, March 31

 Well, this has been an interesting day off.

The observatory tour was not what we expected. Instead of having the opportunity to view the celestial heavens through a telescope, we very given an hour-long lecture on the sun, followed by a look at the innards of two domes and large telescopes that are under reconfiguration for future research. 

Following that, a group of us went to visit the small town of Marfa, which has become something of an artist colony. Unfortunately, today being Monday, all the galleries and exhibits were closed. I did get a refreshing iced Mocha, at a laundromat/coffeehouse,which nearly balanced things out. 

Most of all, it was nice to be able to enjoy some time not worrying about the heat ( yesterday hit 91), the wind (25-30 mph), or the distance. 

Tomorrow promises to be an easier day; 55 mostly-downhill miles to Marathon, with a tailwind, broken up by brief stop in Alpine to greet Larry who is rejoining us. And, we'll be into a new month! How time flies when we're having fun, and I'm having a ball, hard riding and all. 

The view from our motel. 

View from the observatory, some 6000+ ft above sea level. 

The innards of a large telescope. 

Believe it or not, there are 91 1-metre hexagonal mirrors above that grid, configured to act as one. 

The court house at Marfa; the only thing that wasn't closed, aside from where I got my mocha

Day 22 - Sunday, March 30

Van Horn, TX to Fort Davis, TX - 91 miles - 1198 total

Today was déjà vu all over again. The difference was the first 38 miles were either on the interstate or the frontage road. The last 52 were on a secondary road to Fort Davis. 

After yesterday's somewhat gruelling ride, I chose to hang back, help pack up the gear, and ride sweep with Paul. The first part of the ride went well, as we were somewhat pushed along by a strong crosswind. However, once we made the turn toward Fort Davis, it turned into the trip from hell. The crosswind became a headwind, and speeds were reduced to as low as 5 mph.  Once again, it was unrelenting, and extremely frustrating. I seem to have spent most of that part of the ride in my Granny gear, even when going downhill. Total elevation climb was 5414 feet. 

Paul and I left camp at 8:30, and reached the turn off point by noon. We had had a couple of rest/change/food stops along the way. I left Paul at the turn, since he had to ride with the slowest member of the group whom we had reached. I arrived at Fort Davis at 6:00. Paul and the other member were in at 8:00. Four others realized they were going to be in late, ie 7-ish, and chose to be picked up by the van. 

Two things kept me going; stubbornness and a concept that had worked on the previous day's ride. I broke the 52 miles into 5-mile segments.  Every five miles I stopped, got off the bike, had something to eat and some water, and then went on. So, instead of worrying about the big picture, I just counted off the miles to the next break. It also helped that Nicole was handy with the van and a water supply. I went through seven bottles over the 52 miles. 

Highlights: Nicole pouring ice-cold mochas at the 40 mile mark, and handing me a cold Coke at 65 miles. 

Now we have a rest day. My legs are leaden, my butt's a bit sore, time for some R&R. 

University of Texas MacDonald Observatory. We may be going there on our off day. 

Day 21 - Saturday, March 29

Fort Hancock, TX to Van Horn, TX - 76 miles - 1107 total. 

The day broke clear, cool, and calm. Sleeping outside was just what the doctor ordered, so I was refreshed and ready for the day. 

John B and I rode together,and for the first 20+ miles we were on a little-used secondary road, so were able to ride abreast and converse. Very civilized. 

Things changed when we hit Interstate 10. Would you believe it wasn't until this trip that I learned that even-numbered interstates go east-west, while odd-numbered run north-south. Never too old to .....

Anyhow, for the next forty-some miles we rode either directly on the interstate or the frontage road next to it, into headwinds that had been forecast to be between 20 and 30 mph. We had completed the first section in just over a hour. Riding time for the entire 76 miles was 6:10. Get the picture? Total elevation climb was 2414 ft.  

I don't claim to be in the same league as those who ride long distance races, but I had a taste of what it must be like to stare at the white line at the side of the road and follow it mindlessly while the legs maintain a sustainable cadence. 

The highlights of this day were the Subway Seafood Spectacular at Sierra Blanca, about 40 miles into the ride, and even better, the ice cream bar Paul handed me with 16 miles to go. 

Camping at a KOA tonight. Tomorrow we ride to Fort Davis, 90+ miles away, and up in the mountains. Breakfast at 6:30 to enable an early start. No services after 20 miles, which could be interesting. It'll be a three water bottle day, refilled from the van for sure. 

Monday is a rest day. It's time. 

This is all I saw today. 

Day 20 - Friday, March 28

El Paso, TX to Fort Hancock, TX - 55 miles - 1030 total

For those of you who remember the movie, "The Shawshank Redemption", Fort Hancock is where Andy Dufrene crossed into Mexico, and sent Red a postcard with the Fort Hancock postmark so he would know. 

Today was an easy ride! Generally flat with strong tailwind. How strong, you ask? Well, when you consider my bike weighs in somewhere around 37 lbs, I was cruising at 21 mph. That's a strong tailwind. 

Other than that, not an eventful day. Since I was on breakfast duty, I was also responsible, with Derek, for clean up and put-a-way, so I was among the last to leave, and ended up riding sweep with Paul, and David on his recumbent. We felt like we were taking our time, but with the aforementioned wind, finished in the early afternoon. We even stopped twice for food; once at a bakery, well that's what we think the sign said in Spanish, for what must have been day-old doughnuts, and then again beside the Fabens Volunteer Fire Department to eat our lunch. While we were there, the volunteer chief arrived, invited us to use the facilities, and gave us bottles of Gatorade. The general friendliness of the people we have met along the way is one of the memorable aspects of this trip. 

I didn't sleep particularly well last night, so instead of joining many of the group in bunking down on the floor of the Fort Hancock Community Church, I've opted to pitch my tent in the lee of the building to try to get a good night's rest. Tomorrow promises to be a more difficult ride - 75 miles into the wind with some climbing. 

Tonight, after dinner and the map meeting, we're going to play Pictionary. Should be good for a few laughs. 

That's as close as I got to Mexico. Apparently, for the price of a Mexican visa at the crossing, 35 cents, I could have walked across the bridge into Mexico, and then back again, as long as I had my passport. Not something that really appealed to me. 

A stylized bird sculpture welcoming visitors to Mexico. 

Fabens Volunteer Fire Department. The chief had left before I had a chance to take his photo. 

Camping at the Fort Hancock Community Church. 

Mexican hills in the distance. 

Day 19 - Thursday, March 27

Las Cruces, NM to El Paso, Texas - 53 miles - 985 total

As I was riding today, I realized that three weeks ago I left Kamloops for San Diego. For most of those who are reading this missive, the past three weeks have probably been somewhat unremarkable, with the exception of my older son, Ryan, who travelled with his volleyball team to Havana, Cuba. I, like Ryan, am experiencing something quite different and exciting, and at times I find it difficult to realize the rest of the world is not moving at the same pace as I. 

I feet very much out of touch, and I've only been gone 21 days into a 62 day trip! It's not a negative feeling, just interesting. 

The winds last night shook and pummelled my tent until just before 4 am. Needless to say, sleep was somewhat sporadic. The day broke clear and calm, but it wasn't long before the winds reappeared, making the ride to El Paso a bit of a chore. On top of that, I forgot to put on sunscreen, and am feeling a tad warm right now. 

I've been in a musical mood the past couple of days. Yesterday, I channeled Frankie Lane, from Paint Your Wagon, singing, " Away out west, they've got a name for rain and wind and fire. The rain is Tess, the fire's Job, and they call the wind Maria". Today it's Marty Robbins, " Down in the west Texas town of El Paso, there lived a beautiful Mexican girl". Or some such thing. Anyhow, my compadres (notice how I'm being one with the south) have expressed their appreciation of my serenading, and more so that I've stopped. 

Speaking of the south, Nicole made grits for breakfast this morning, in honour of crossing into Texas today. I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised, so much so I'd have them again. 

The good news about entering Texas is that we're now almost a third of our way across the country. The surprising news is that it will take us another 18 days and 1000 miles to cross the state! 

We're staying in an old hotel in downtown El Paso that has been converted into a hostel/residential hotel. Four to a room in bunk beds, two rooms sharing a bathroom, back to basics all the way. Derek and I were scheduled to cook, and when we heard we had access to a full kitchen, we planned a fairly substantial meal. When we took one look at the grungy set up and filthy cookware, we opted for plan B, and served up baked beans and Caesar salad, done with our camping equipment. Food is food on the trip, no one complained, and all was devoured. It helped that we bought a cheesecake for dessert. 

There's a scale in the lobby of the hotel that apparently is quite accurate, according to the majority of the group who have stepped on it. If it is, I've lost almost 10 lbs since I left Kamloops! The strange thing is that I don't feel or look like I have. Cycling burns calories and works the legs, but does nothing for the core, so I'm just as flabby as ever, but in a lighter way. 

Tomorrow we head to Fort Hancock, and will be out of wifi range for a couple of days. 

Messilla, NM. This Billy the Kid gift shop was once a courthouse, and it was there that Billy was sentenced to be hanged. 

Pecan tress. 

Day 18 - Wednesday, March 26

Caballo, NM to Las Cruces, NM - 61 miles - 932 total. 

The anticipated rain did show up, preceded by a strong windstorm just after dark. Although I thought I had staked my tent securely, one gust freed one of my vestibules, so there I was with mallet in hand and headlamp shining, restaking as the tent was being buffeted. 

In the midst of all this, a clamour was heard from Gina and Dena's tent; they had been checking their stakes, and when they re-entered their tent, they found a spider on a pillow. It was quickly dispatched with the help of a mallet and accompanying shrieks. We take our entertainment where we find it. :)

Just after the winds had finally subsided, the rain arrived, but only lasted long enough to wet the tents. It made packing up this morning messy, but everything quickly dried out once camp was set up this afternoon. I had told the group that the three previous tours I had done with this company, albeit only one week in duration, had been rain free, and I felt that that tradition should continue. Until last night, we had been over two weeks without getting wet, but I feared my winning streak had ended. However, the general consensus seems to be that since the rain started after we had retired for the night, and was short lived, and since we neither had to pack up or ride in the rain, the gods were still smiling upon us. I'll take that. 

The main feature about today's ride was the wind. The unrelenting cross and headwinds. Four and a half hours of wind. And it's still blowing now, and once again buffeting my tent as I lie here typing this, six hours after I finished my ride. I think I prefer hills. There's an end that can be seen on a hill. There's a chance to rest after a hill. The wind can't be seen, only felt; one never knows when it will stop. 

The area we rode through today is a major chili pepper and pecan centre. Vast orchards of pecan trees stretched to the horizon, interspersed with fields of chili pepper and cotton plants, all of which are just coming out of their dormant winter stage. 

Lots of money down here, not only from the agriculture, but also from retirement communities that are springing up. Apparently, it's a popular summer second-home destination for well-off Americans who want to get away from the humid southern states where they live. . Saw some pretty fancy adobe-style homes on acreages on the way to the campsite. Las Cruces is the third largest city in New Mexico, and growing rapidly. 

One highlight of today's ride was the breakfast burrito stop in Hatch, the chili pepper capital of NM. Food is always a highlight. ;)

Enjoying our breakfast burritos with Derek, Greg, Dena, and Gina. 

Paul, our leader, showing he's not just an accomplished touring cyclist. 

Overlooking Las Cruces, NM

Day 17 - Tuesday, March 25

Kingston, NM to Lake Caballo State Park - 32 miles - 862 total. 

I know, you're saying to yourself, "32 miles?". Well, it's like this; the leaders, when planning the route were faced with a choice: after the big climb, either do one day of 90+ miles to get us to Las Cruces,NM, or break it into two days of roughly 30 and 60. Thankfully, saner heads prevailed,and the latter choice was made. 

The overnight stay at the Black Ridge Lodge was wonderful. The lodge provided a great dinner, and breakfast this morning, and my bed was as comfortable as I could have hoped for.  First really good sleep since the trip began. 

Because the distance was short, there was no rush to head out this morning, and once on the road, no stress about finishing by a certain time. So, just eight miles from the lodge, a quaint cafe enticed me in for a hot chocolate, which I needed because it was chilly, and I somehow had packed my vest and jacket in my bag which was in the trailer which was way on down the road. Thankfully, by the time I ventured outside again, the sun was over the hills, and although I was never toasty warm, the ride was bearable. 

The weather up to this point has been great, but the clouds have been moving in, and there is a chance of rain and lightning overnight. I'm hoping the forecast is wrong; taking down or putting up a tent in the rain is not my favourite experience. 

One of our group, Larry, the ex-Congressman from North Carolina, had to leave us temporarily today. His father-in-law passed away overnight. He had been ill for some time, and Larry had been receiving daily updates, so the death was not unexpected. The funeral service is Friday, and depending on how his wife and family are coping, Larry hopes to rejoin the tour before we hit Austin in two weeks. Luckily, Nicole's partner, who had joined us for a couple of days, was able to drive him up to Albuquerque to catch a flight home. 

Tomorrow Las Cruces, and then into Texas on Thursday where Derek and I will exhibit our culinary skills. 

Hot chocolate warm up. 

Old town New Mexico.

Riding through miles and miles of emptiness in the New Mexico high desert. 

Lake Caballo State Park campground. 

Day 16 - Monday, March 24

Junction south of Wilderness Lodge to Kingston, NM - 54 miles - 830 total

Today it was all about climbing, although there was an incredible gradual downhill in the first couple of hours that went on forever. However, all that did was soften us up for the last big climb of the tour, over Emory Pass (8228 ft). It's actually the biggest climb, but not the most difficult. 

The actual ascent was only about four miles long, but there were seven miles of run-up ascents followed by descents, all at about a 6% grade. One of the riders said we actually climbed over 5000 feet during the ride.

Although Greg and I were not the first to leave, we soon passed those who had preceded us, and blew down the long decline. At one point we re-crossed the Continental Divide, but there was no signage for a photo op, so you'll have to take my word for it. As a result, he and I were the first to begin and end the climb. Once again, I bottomed out my gears, and then just held on to a cadence that gave me 6 mph. The road seemed to go on forever; switchback following switchback, sometimes in the sun, then in the cooling shade. 

I have to say I was more than happy to see the summit. 

There was a woman, Chris, from Colorado parked in her van at the top. She introduced herself, and mentioned she had done the same tour, albeit with a women's-only group in 2001.  She was on her way to Gila to visit with a woman who had done the ride with her. Anyhow, she was excited to see us, as it brought back great memories of her own ride. Her enthusiasm was infectious, and once I realized what I had accomplished, I couldn't stop grinning. 

I had a difficult time catching my breath at first, altitude combined with exertion, but I did manage to ask her to take my picture in front of the summit sign for posterity.  And when Greg arrived a few minutes later, we did a joint "King of the Mountain" pose. 

The payback for conquering the climb was a 8-mile downhill to Kingston where we're overnighting. It was a chilly ride, especially after all the sweaty exertion, but a great way to finish the day. 

We're still in the mountains, which means the mornings are chilly. Looking forward to that Texas heat later this week. 

At the summit. 

With Greg, who chased me to the top. 

The reward. 

Tonight's abode. 

Day 15 - Sunday, March 23

Silver City to Gila National Park Wilderness Lodge and Hot Springs - 25 miles - 776 total

The  recorded distance is correct, since we actually rode 25 miles to a junction, but we then loaded the bikes on the top of the van, and drove the remaining 14 miles to the lodge. One of the riders has an app that records total elevation gain on each ride. Today, we climbed just over 2700 total feet in the 25 miles. Puts the concept of rolling hills into perspective. 

The scenery along the ride, both bike and van was spectacular. In many ways it reminded me of the Thompson-Okanagan region, but it was distinctively New Mexican at the same time. 

The ride was a study in contrasts; work up a sweat climbing the hills, then cool off drastically on the steep downhills. The temp did warm up from the near-freezing lows in Silver City (I had frost on my tent!), but as we climbed higher, the air got thinner and cooler. 

Once we unloaded our gear at the lodge, we climbed back into the van and headed off for a tour of the Gila (pronounced Heela) Cliff Dwellings, which are around 700 years old. The caves had been inhabited off and on for about 1500 years, but the dwellings were built between 1275 and 1287, and the builders left the area by 1300 after only one generation.

The area had been vandalized in the late 1800s and early 1900s, but some restoration has taken place, and there's enough of the original work to get a feel of the place. Seeing the actual hieroglyphs was interesting. 

Tomorrow, we head south, crossing the Continental Divide one more time, and embracing warmer climes in the days to come. 

Onward and upward!

A memorial for a local rider killed by a car passing on a double solid line. 

Getting ready to shuttle up to the lodge. 

The caldera left after the super volcano eons ago. 

Gila Cliff Dwellings

Day 14 - Saturday, March 22

Rest day. 

It turns out Silver City is no big deal. There's a downtown that is struggling to attract visitors by offering funky little shops, competing with Walmart and the big hotels out on the highway bypass. 

So, the day consisted of finding a cute restaurant for breakfast, followed by the best coffee on the route (according to Paul), then lubing the chain and servicing the bike. By then it was time for a lunch of buffalo wings, beer, and NCAA basketball; a  short nap, then a cinnamon mocha and more basketball. Somewhere in that busy schedule I found time to write an email, rearrange my bags, and start a new book. Now I'm heading out for dinner, more beer, and yet another basketball game. Such is life on the road. 

Tomorrow we head up to Gila National Park to tour the ancient cliff dwellings after our ride. 

Day 13 - Friday, March 21

Buckhorn, NM to Silver City, NM - 37 miles - 751 total. 

Short day, fairly easy ride. Rolling hills, climbing up and over the Continental Divide. Cold morning warmed up quickly, and we were done by noon. A nice way to get ready for a rest day. We're camping in an RV park that is more than a few steps up from yesterday's overnight. 

Silver City is a historical town, so tomorrow I'll spend some time exploring.

The good news is that Dena and Dave are recovering from their flu bug, and no one else has been hit. The paranoia seems to have waned. 

Breakfast at Buckhorn. 

An interested spectator. 

Much like home.

Crossing the Continental Divide with Nicole and Gina.

Day 12 - Thursday, March 20

Safford, AZ to Buckhorn, New Mexico - 78 miles - 714 total

What a difference a day makes. Yesterday was a good ride, albeit with some traffic. Today was all about climbing, and it was brutal. One section near the start of the day was eight miles long with a 7% grade. The later portion, which began around the 35 mile mark was a 12 mile climb, 8% grade, long switchbacks. By the time I reached the summit, I had run out of gears! I have a triple ring at the front, ten sprockets at the back, and I was as low as I could go, hanging on to a cadence that got me over the top. That was followed by some great rolling sections, but my legs were so tired, even the easy parts were a chore. 

Thankfully, tomorrow is a short one, somewhere around 37 miles, with some climbing up to Silver City for a rest day Saturday. 

Tonight we're camping at a so-called RV park, which is more like a rundown park model village. We have one bathroom for the 14 of us, which will make for some interesting juggling in the morning. Because today was so difficult, and some riders didn't get in until after dark, we went out for pizza for dinner. I get to help with breakfast, which means I have to be up earlier than the others. However, since tomorrow is a short day, breakfast isn't until 8:00. 

One thought about Arizona: for all the good things about the state and its climate and facilities, the amount of garbage, beer cans,  and broken glass beside the roads was atrocious. I don't know if it's because there is no recycling program in place, or people just don't care, but if I were a citizen, I'd be embarrassed. 

And that's my sermon for the day. :)

Miles of emptiness

From the top of the second climb. 

And again.