Day 58 - Monday, May 5

Palatka, FL to St. Augustine, FL - 51 miles - 3181 miles (5134 km) total. 

The last day!

Woke to a beautiful sunrise. 

Had a beautiful scenic ride, with one sobering reminder of how lucky we were to have 14 of us safely ride over 5000 km across the country. 

Then it was St. Augustine. 

Once we had all arrived, it was time for the obligatory shots on the beach. 

Interesting stat: JB finished tallying our total elevation climb over the 58 days - 73 481 ft or 22 397 metres. Impressive, no matter which way you look at it. 

During a rest stop at Molaases Junction, JB and I were entertained by a crop-dusting plane that actually flew under the roadside power lines after spraying the adjoining field. A remarkable display of aerial artistry. 

Heading out to the Jacksonville airport tonight for an early flight home tomorrow. 

Day 57 - Sunday, May 4

Gainesville, FL to Palatka, FL - 61 miles - 3140 miles. 

It was the ultimate penultimate day. After five days of overcast and rain, we rode in sunshine and heat. And to top it off, the route included over 20 miles of bike path; no traffic, no noise, no stress. 

One highlight was Nicole meeting us at the 30-mile mark with bottles of cold Starbucks mochas. Perfection!

We're staying at a motel/resort along the St. John River, which we'll cross tomorrow on our final ride to St. Augustine. 

We had a celebratory dinner of Southern boil (crayfish, crab legs, sausage, shrimp, and corn on the cob) on the patio, and then moved inside for our final map meeting, and a bout of reminiscing about each leg of the journey, which brought back the many fun and difficult times we shared. 

Day 56 - Saturday, May 3

White Springs, FL to Gainesville, FL - 71 miles - 3079 total. 

The forecast for today was for partial cloud, zero chance of rain, and moderate temps. The reality was overcast, rain, and cool. 

The most frustrating part of the ride was when the precip would taper off, we'd take off our rain gear only to have the heavens open up again. It rained right up to our arrival at our final camping spot of the tour, the 300 Tennis and Swim Club. We've set up our tents next to the tennis courts, and some of our group, not I, are availing themselves of the outdoor pool and its 82 degrees water. And now the sun is peeking out of the broken clouds, and there's actually blue sky in sight.  Maybe our last two days on the road will be hot and sunny, just as we started. Wouldn't that be nice!

It was nice to see some wild flowers again. First real colour since Texas. 

Day 55 - Friday, May 2

Monticello, FL to White Springs, FL - 76 miles - 3008 total

Our WarmShowers hosts, Maria and Diane, were amazing. Not only did they insist on buying us dinner, pizza and wings to the tune of over $100, Maria was up at 6:30 this morning to cook us a huge breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon. 

In addition to our group, there was also a self-contained cyclist, Lee, who had set out from St. Augustine last week, making it to Monticello when the storms hit. Although he claimed to be anxious to get back on the road, he was making no plans to get around the flood-damaged parts of the Tier. As a matter of fact, when we left this morning, he announced he'd be spending another day at the acreage. What a deal; two meals a day, run of the house, his own room, and all of it rent free. Some of us wondered if he'd ever leave!

JB and I chose to ride sweep with Paul today, mainly to keep him company. One of our group continues to dawdle as she rides, which can be very frustrating for the leader who has to ride with or behind her. So today, once the slowpoke had begun her ride, the three of us left the acreage, rode the mile into town, found an eatery, and spent about 45 minutes shooting the breeze over coffee. Then it was a leisurely ride to the next break, which happened to be Greenville, the birthplace of Ray Charles, where we enjoyed a snack at the park commemorating his birth. 

This pace continued, so that although we only rode for five and a half hours, it took us seven and a half to complete the trip, and we still caught up with the dawdler eight miles from our destination. That's slow!

The weather has begun to cooperate, and although it did rain for part of the ride, we did see the sun, however briefly, a few times during the day. Tomorrow's forecast is for improving conditions. Here's hoping. 

We're in the land of moss-laden trees. Cue the horror-movie music!

Tomorrow will also be our last camping destination, as well as our last cooking night, and yours truly is one of the last cooks. In honour of the occasion, and because neither my partner nor I have any ambition, we're going back to college and serving up KD and brats, with key lime pie for dessert. 

Day 54 - Thursday, May 1

Tallahassee, FL to Monticello, FL - 52 miles - 2932 total. 

It's been an interesting day. We started out dry, got drenched by a torrential downpour between miles 15 and 30, and then stayed wet as the rains, although less intense, continued through to Monticello. 

The ground is saturated, and flooding is a real problem. We haven't seen any first hand, but the creeks alongside the roads are overflowing their banks, and many fields and front yards we've passed are under water. So far, our route seems ok, but with the rains expected to continue till Saturday, things can change. 

We're staying at another WarmShowers, this time with an eccentric retired pathologist and her partner on their acreage. They share their home with a rescued pit bull, four rescued chihuahuas, and a couple of cats. Four of our group elected to stay at a B&B in town, but the rest of us will be bunking down in an old  RV and around the old farmhouse which has been added to and extended this way and that. On top of that, there is clutter everywhere, but with some judicious shifting of articles and furniture, there is room for us. The main thing is we're warm and dry. 

One of the most difficult things about cycling in the rain is remembering to drink enough fluids. Somehow, when being soaked by the elements, the idea of ingesting even more water seems ridiculous. However, as I found out today, going forty miles without taking even a sip of water can result in one's legs cramping. It's amazing how quickly one's body reacts favourably when the water bottle is drained. 

Tomorrow will be a high-mileage day, which may be a tad more tiring because of the weather. But, to repeat our mantra, it is what it is. 

Our hosts, Maria and Diane. 

Day 53 - Wednesday, April 30

Tallahassee, FL - rest day - 0 miles - 2880 total. 

Today was a true rest day. 

The major system that has pounded the Florida panhandle also dumped a lot of rain here. So, since our Motel 6 is not exactly in the centre of town, or close to the FSU campus, most of the day was spent just hanging out. It's not like I had a great urge to go riding anywhere in the rain. 

It's hard to believe the places we rode through just a few days ago have suffered the damage we've seen on the news. We may be faced with some flooded roads in the next couple of days, but it looks like the rain will be moderate, and the threat of thunderstorms and tornadoes has diminished. We wonder how the other tour group following a week behind us are going to fare. I imagine their leaders are constantly reviewing route options. 

It's hard to believe tomorrow is May 1, and we only have five days left. Much of the past seven weeks is a blur, and even when someone mentions a particular town or stopover, I have a difficult time picturing it. I'm thankful I've been consistent with this posting, as it will be my memory trigger. 

Yesterday was a bad day, but I'm confident the remaining days, rain soaked or sunny, will be a positive experience. 

Day 52 - Tuesday, April 29

Florida Caverns State Park, FL to Tallahassee, FL - 75 miles - 2880 total. 

Today was a hard, wet day. 

 The overnight rain did not materialize overnight; however the lightning and thunder became noticeable around 3:00 am, although at a great distance. That began to change about 5:00, just when Paul  came around to our tents to advise us to get up and packed, as the storm was expected to hit us by 6:00, and there was a tornado alert as well. Needless to say, that got everyone moving quickly. 

We then spent the next couple of hours sheltered at the restrooms, as the lightning flashed, the thunder boomed, and the rain pelted down. Thankfully, the tornado failed to materialize. 

By 8:30, the rain had abated somewhat, so many of us made the decision to begin our ride to Tallahassee, despite not having breakfast or being able to put together lunch and snacks. That was an even bigger decision for me because in my concern about the mosquitos last night, I forgot to secure my rack pack, and found my bike this morning lying on its side, the pack open, and my leftover snacks gone. The pesky raccoons had struck again. Four of the riders decided to ride with Nicole in the van. 

At the time, it was still quite warm, and I chose just to wear my rain jacket and helmet cover, and left my rain pants and booties in my bag in the van. That was a decision I would come to regret. 

By the time Nicole and the four passengers in the van passed JB and me, about 10 miles down the road, I had realized not only did I need the pants and booties, but I was getting chilled, and thought I should don a long-sleeved shirt as well as my full-fingered gloves. 

Given today's conditions, I hoped to see the van parked beside the road at the 15-mile mark, and was prepared to dig out my necessary items. No van. Not there, or at the 24-mile or 30- mile marks. That's when I realized the ride was going to be a bit more difficult than anticipated. I was cold, very wet, and tired. It was reminiscent of the MS ride last September, but warmer, although today's temp was close to 30 degrees cooler than yesterday. We rode the 75 miles in a full-blown torrential thunderstorm, complete with countless flashes of sheet and forked lightning. It got a bit hairy at times. 

Once Nicole had driven to Tallahassee, and checked everyone in to the motel, she did go back up the highway to pick up two riders who had decided enough was enough, but that didn't help JB or me.  We arrived at the motel, cold and wet, before she returned. The first thing I did on entering my room was turn on the heat. Then I had a hot, hot shower. 

Tomorrow is a rest day. Laundry is on the agenda, as well as trying to dry out things that got soaked in my handlebar bag, like my passport and wallet which were in a Ziplock baggie. 

One highlight of the day is my turn in the room assignment rotation giving me a single. After seven weeks of sharing bedroom and bathrooms, this is a treat! 

Aside from that, who knows. The weather is supposed to be iffy for the next few days, which is not a great way to end the tour, especially considering how wonderful we've had it over the past seven weeks. Fingers crossed. 

No pictures today. The focus was on finishing; everything else was secondary. 

Day 51 - Monday, April 28

Crestview, FL to Florida Caverns State Park, FL - 92 miles - 2805 total. 

No wifi today. 

It was a 90s day; 92 miles down Hwy 90, with the temp hitting 92, and the humidity in the 90s. Fortunately, the roads were good, the shoulder wide, and the winds sometimes not head on. But it was still tiring. 

This park at which we are staying was closed because of flooding until last Saturday. One of the negative results is the proliferation of mosquitos, which are eating us alive! This is the first time the bug spray has been needed, and man, is it needed!

As I type this, it's 7:40 and dark, and all are inside their tents, driven there by the bugs. Unfortunately, it's still very hot and humid, there's no breeze, and my tent is a sauna. The fly is on because of the threat of overnight rain, but the flaps are open for ventilation. I'm dripping wet, and don't know how I'm going to sleep. Could be a long night. 

It turns out there is still room on the Trans-Am ride I mentioned earlier. And, if I wish, I can get a ride with Nicole and the van and trailer up to Williamsport, Virginia, and on May 18, begin the ride to Florence, Oregon, arriving some time in August. 

Just kidding, Janet. 

The route took us through a small town that has some beautiful heritage homes, most of which had plaques attached indicating their status. The street they were on circled a small lake, making for a picturesque setting. 

Tomorrow we head to Tallahassee and a rest day on Wednesday. 

Taking a break at the 50 mile mark of the 92 mile ride. 

Day 50 - Sunday, April 27

Gulf Beach, FL to Crestview, FL - 78 miles - 2713 total. 

An uneventful ride. Left camp at 8:00 am, pulled into the motel in Crestview at 2:30. However, we, JB and I, only rode for 5h15m, the rest were breaks. 

We passed by the Pensacola Naval Air Station, home of the famous Blue Angels, but it being Sunday, and relatively early in the morning, nothing and no one was in the air. 

The weather continues hot, high 80's, and humid. Rain is apparently in the forecast, but so far so good. 

We're faced with some high mileage over the next few days in order to complete the trip within the allotted 58 days. As Paul pointed out, the optimum length for the tour is 62 days, but the powers-that-be at ACA have deemed the shorter time span in order to have the van and trailer available for the Trans-America tour that leaves in mid-May from Virginia. Originally, we were supposed to have 11 days off over the 8 weeks, but Paul and Nicole had to reduce that to 7, including our first intro day in San Diego, in order to get us to St. Augustine in time. It's a good thing we're all stronger than we were at the beginning, or the next nine days would be most difficult. We do have a rest day in Tallahassee later this week before our final push to the end. 

Tonight's map meeting will have us pulling out the seventh and final map of the tour. Another indication of how close we are to the end. 

I've run into an interesting situation with my camera. Recently, it has labelled three photos as unidentifiable, and when I attempt to import them to the iPad, another photo is overlaid on the original. Weird!

Which leads me to today's photo collection. The first is just one of red dirt, because I'm impressed with how red it is. The other three are the ones I mentioned earlier. 

See, I told you it was red!

This was a shot of a unique example of Dauphin Island architecture. I have no idea from where this came!

A close-up shot of an oil rig in Mobile Bay. 

The first photo I took of the sign. 

Go figure. 

Day 49 - Saturday, April 26.

Dauphin Island, AL to Gulf Beach, FL - 44 miles - 2635 total. 

No wifi today. 

Well, it was almost Paradise Lost last night. 

The campsite next to ours was occupied by two couples from Louisiana, who had been sitting and drinking for much of the day. Of course, the inevitable happened, and the screaming and swearing went on till the police showed up around 1:00 am. At the same time, another couple were camped close by with two Labrador Retrievers who were bothered by the commotion, and added to it sporadically. On top of that, two young men who had pulled into the site next to mine had a spat, and one decided to sleep in the car, a decision which resulted in the slamming of doors and tearful pleadings until after 2:00. 

Needless to say, none of us, in fact no one in the tenting section, got much sleep, especially since we cyclists had to be up at 6:30 for the day's trip. 

The only thing that saved it for me was going to the beach and doing my Tai Chi set while watching sea birds diving on a school of fish as the sun rose. That was magical. 

Today's trip began with a 35-min ferry ride from the island to Fort Morgan, a trip that took us past one of the many oil rigs that inhabit both Mobile Bay and the off-shore of the Gulf. Then we had a 15-mile ride along the peninsula past scores of beachfront homes raised up on stilts and coloured by every shade on the pastel palette. 

The big attraction in Gulf Beach today was the annual mullet toss, which, as far as I could gather, was a contest to see how far one could throw a fish, not an 80's holdover. In reality, it looked more like Spring Break, with the roads and beaches clogged by cooler-toting young men accompanied by skimpily-dressed girls. Testosterone was rampant. 

Completely off topic: school buses in this part of the world have white strobe lights on the roof at the rear of the bus. Supposedly that makes them more visible. 

Today we're camping along the Intercoastal waterway, and are having dinner at the beach while watching the watercraft, and the occasional dolphin, going past in both directions.  And to top it all off, the resident alligator which lives in a small lagoon in the park stuck his head up as we passed by on the boardwalk on the way back to our campsite after dinner. A good way to end the day. 

Fort Dauphin Island. 

Day 48 - Friday, April 25

Vancleave, MS to Dauphin Island, AL - 77 miles - 2591 total. 

Another day in Paradise. Well, not quite, but so far Alabama has been a nice change from Mississippi. Smooth pavement, good shoulders, NO dogs, and tonight we're a stone's throw from the beach and the Gulf of Mexico. The only major disappointment so far was the lack of a 'Welcome to Alabama' sign on the secondary road we travelled. I guess maybe it was too secondary. ;)

Dauphin Island is accessed from the west by a 10-mile causeway and bridge that separates the Gulf from the Bay  of Mobile and the Intercoastal waterway. It's a recreation and vacation playground, with colourful rental properties and boats galore. 

Although travel by bicycle is appreciably slower than automobile, and we are therefore more aware of our surroundings, there are still occasions when the perfect subject for a photo goes by before we can react. That's when the regret, and the 'should have' kicks in. Yesterday it was two men riding on a horse-drawn wagon, both seated in LazyBoy-style recliners. Unfortunately, they were climbing a hill we were descending, and although it would have been a great shot, chasing them up the hill was not an option. 

Today,  when we passed over the Eseatawpa River, we saw a number of fishing shanties along the shoreline, reminiscent of the movie 'Mud' that Janet and I viewed just before I left on this trip. 

The only saving grace is that for every shot missed, I've found others to take. 

Tomorrow, we're off to Florida across the bay. Three states in three days. Not bad. 

 

Dauphin Island. 

Pelican roost.